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In 1934, the British explorers Eric Shipton and H. W. Tilman, with three Sherpa companions, Angtharkay, Pasang and Kusang, finally discovered a way through the Rishi Gorge into the Sanctuary. Nanda Devi (center) with Sunanda Devi (on the right), Shot from Ranikhet, Almora.
The Anglo-American expedition made the first ascent of the main peak of Nanda Devi. H.W. Tilman and Noel Odell reached the summit on 28 August 1936. Two members made an exit via the Longstaff Col to Lwan gad.
- Nanda Devi and Sunanda Devi
- Difficult to Access
- Early Explorers
- William Woodman Graham
- Longstaff’s Love Affair
- Shipton and Tilman
- The First Ascent of Nanda Devi
- The First Ascent of Sunanda Devi
- The 1951 Expedition
- Duplat’S Determination
Amid these towering mountains are two breathtaking peaks that have captivated explorers and climbers for over 190 years, Nanda Devi and Sunanda Devi. Nanda Devi is the second-highest mountain in India after 8,586m Kangchenjunga, and the highest one that is located entirely within the country. The ”Blessed Goddess,” 7,816m Nanda Devi also has a lowe...
The river Rishi Ganga begins with the glacier called Uttari Nanda Devi. The Dakshini Nanda Devi Glacier also feeds it. Rishi Ganga flows through the Nanda Devi National Park and then into the Dhauli Ganga River. Established in 1982, Nanda Devi National Park has an Inner and an Outer part. High ridges surround both, and access to the basin known as ...
Foreign exploration of this region started in 1830 with G. W. Traill, the first commissioner of Garhwal and Kuamon. He approached the Nanda Devi group from the east up the Pindari Glacier, then crossed a high col on a ridge that joins the Nanda Devi Massif to Nanda Kot. Today, this 5,312m col is called the Pindari Kanda Traill’s Pass. Twenty-five y...
In 1883, British mountaineer William Woodman Graham made two expeditions to the Nanda Devi massif. Accompained by Swiss hotelier Emil Boss and Swiss guide Ulrich Kaufmann, Graham set off for the Garhwal Himalaya in June of that year. They could not penetrate the Inner Sanctuary, but Graham decided to attempt 7,066m Dunagiri, eventually reaching 6,9...
In 1905, Tom Longstaff and the Brocherel brothers attempted to climb Nanda Devi from the east. They reached a col, later called Longstaff Col, but failed to summit. Longstaff and the Brocherels could see the two summits of Nanda Devi, but according to Longstaff, the descent toward the inner basin was too dangerous. Longstaff fell in love with Nanda...
The same style, elegance, courage, and authenticity also marked Eric Shipton, one of the greatest mountaineers of all time. Famously, he wrote Blank on the Map(published in 1938), after his 1937 expedition to K2. Three years earlier, in 1934, Shipton had attempted Nanda Devi. His partners included the illustrious Major Harold William (Bill) Tilman,...
In 1935, Shipton and Tilman made a reconnaissance of Everest with a view to returning the following year. But after 1935, the two men’s paths diverged. Shipton focused more on Everest, while Tilman decided to return to Nanda Devi. He brought six companions, three British and three Americans. On August 29, 1936, Bill Tilman and Noel Odell managed to...
Sunanda Devi (Nanda Devi East) 7,434m, was first ascended on July 2, 1939, by two members of a Polish party, led by Adam Karpinski. Jakub Bujak and Janusz Klarner summited by the south ridge, via the Longstaff Col. Willi Unsoeld, Tom Hornbein’s partner on their legendary 1963 traverse of Everest, named his daughter after Nanda Devi. But it did not ...
Perhaps the most memorable of all expeditions to Nanda Devi was the 1951 French attempt. It raises a multitude of questions: What are the limits of our willpower? How can order and precision animate a crazy idea? What happens if only you really believe in something and everyone else says it’s too dangerous? Here is the story of Roger Duplat and Gil...
Duplat was absolutely determined to climb first Nanda Devi West (Main), then traverse and summit Nanda Devi East. Twenty-three-year-old Gilbert Vignes decided to go with him. The Sherpas would accompany the two French climbers to Camp 4. From there, the duo would push to the summit of Nanda Devi West, then continue.
History. The first recorded attempt to explore the sanctuary was in 1883 by W. W. Graham, who could proceed only up to Rishi Ganga. [1] . Other attempts by explorers in 1870, (T. G. Longstaff) 1926, 1927 and 1932 (Hugh Ruttledge) did not fetch fruitful results.
Jun 23, 2024 · 90 years ago, in 1934, mountaineers Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman pulled off one of the greatest feats of exploration by finding a way to enter the Nanda Devi Sanctuary.
Feb 2, 2015 · The higher of Nanda Devi’s twin peaks was first summited by Noel Odell and Bill Tilman on August 29, 1936, becoming the highest peak ever climbed until it was later surpassed by an expedition...
Jun 8, 2017 · Even earlier, from the time Shipton first came to Nanda Devi, the people of Lata have featured prominently in the history of mountaineering in this area. The villagers of Lata are Bhotias, like the rest of the denizens of the Niti valley who live by the banks of the trans-Himalayan Dhauli Ganga river.
