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Gulf Western,Penrite and other 'Áustralian' Oil Co. bring 90% of their oil in from Singapore in the various grades and downsize to plastic containers and smaller drums. I don't know how they get away with claiming they refine their own oil,it must be a Chemist in a room somewhere refining crude into 100ml bottles.
The only way I to really know if the oil within your car is really doing its job is via used oil analysis test. All the talk about oil X is better then oil Y is unfounded unless you can show an oil analysis report detailing both oils wear particles, run in the same engine for the same drain interval.
Its a good oil for the price and the extra zinc content will look after the valve train. EDIT: My understanding is that LPG engines build up acidic contaminants quicker than petrol engines, so buying a moderately priced oil designed for LPG and changing more frequently would be more beneficial thqn buying a dear oil and changing less frequently.
A multigrade oil is a oil that thins out less than it would at high temp, IF it was a straight 10 weight. The idea is that it it's thinner than a 40 weight would be when cold, but thicker than a 10 weight would be when hot. So you're saying that for the same given rating, oil has become thinner over time than in the 90s.
SYN–X 3000™ is a high performance, high quality, semi synthetic premium grade passenger car oil. Is it any good for a Ford BA XR6T, or should I stick with a full synthetic oil? My BA isnt modified in any way, and I drive "sensibly". This is a SN/CF oil, but its not recommended for older cars with flat tappet camshafts.
Synthetic oil is either "pretendy" synthetic oil which is extra refined mineral oil (that approximates the performance of a true synthetic), or it is true synethic oil that is synthesised from natural gas [those sold in supercheap are mostly not true synthetic; apart from the $100/5L 0W-40s, 0W-30s etc typically].
Boutique blenders like Nulon, Penrite, Gulf Western, Lucas Oil etc simply buy different grades of base oils and additive packs and mix them together to make different products. The major petrochemical companies are more secret and proprietary, regardless you are unlikely to get a "bad" oil from Valvoline, Mobil, Caltex, Castrol, Shell etc (just some products that are bad value for money ;) ).
FWIW, The N46 engine had problems when using cheap oil or missed oil change due to blocked oil passages so, consider the oil type change very carefully, you could be making a small problem into a much bigger problem. Thanks for the helpful info. You are certainly right with the blocked passages. I previously had the CCV replaced due to blockage.
Note that a thick oil doesn't have to be a cheap mineral oil with a low viscosity index like the Gulf Western 20W50 or Penrite 40(W)70, thick synthetic oils like these are also available: Meh, too expensive for an old banger like this.
Just buy an oil that meets the spec of the vehicle and change it at the correct interval. Throwing synthetic oil at it is quite literally throwing money down the drain. A semi-synthetic oil (10w40 or 15w40) on sale will cost approximately $15/5L and will last 10,000km. You can get it as low as $12/5L.
