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- The City of Marseille, aka “m.a.r.s” or “planet Mars”, is an icon of Hip-Hop culture… It all started in the Eighties, when the city rapidly forged its reputation as a leading epicentre of French rap and the birthplace of such famous names as IAM and Fonky Family.
provence-alpes-cotedazur.com/en/things-to-do/culture-and-heritage/marseille-discovering-the-citys-legendary-rap-venues/Marseille’s rap legends | Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur Tourism
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Aug 11, 2024 · In this blog post, we’ll dive into the pros and cons of visiting Marseille, helping you decide if it’s the right destination for your next trip. We’ll explore the city’s top attractions, such as the iconic Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde, the bustling Vieux-Port, and the historic Le Panier district.
Feb 9, 2022 · It's cool and the weather is hot," Pierre Picard said on the phone, referencing both its hip urban character and the 300 days of sunshine that bless the city each year.
- Thomas Bird
- Overview
- What to see & do
- Where to go shopping
- Where to eat in Marseille
- Like a local
- Where to stay in Marseille
- After hours in the city
As France gears up to host the Rugby World Cup, take the time to explore one of its key venues — a truly Mediterranean city in the midst of a decade-old renaissance.
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
“Marseille has a strong personality,” says tour guide Alexandra Blanc Véa as we take in the art of the graffiti-splashed Cours Julien district. A Paris native who’s been a resident of Marseille for over 20 years, she leads me down streets hastily sprayed with calls for strike action, to reach the grand, climate-conscious mural Man vs Wild. This piece by local artist Mahn Kloix covers the side of a house and shows a man in yellow trunks and flippers swimming to meet an enormous turtle.
“You either like it here or you don’t, but you can’t stay in the middle,” says Alexandra. Marseille has a fascinating past, and receives more sun than anywhere else in France. It has a glittering harbour, magnificent seafood and easy access to the rugged beauty of nearby Calanques National Park. But bits of it are undeniably falling apart, after a mid-20th century slump in its fortunes that has only recently begun to improve. Marseille wouldn’t be the first great trading port to combine grit and grandeur, but its unpolished image sets it apart from most French cities.
At least there is plenty of material for street art tours. Cours Julien’s colourful streets spider off from a central square lined with bistros and bars, all abuzz with chatter. Almost every square inch of concrete is a canvas for bug-eyed cartoons, surreal patterns or eviscerating political statements.
This hilltop neighbourhood is the heart of a youthful and modern Marseille, but down at the cinematic Vieux Port (‘Old Port’) there’s also a buzz from the departing tour boats, harbourside cafes and fishermen selling their morning’s catch at makeshift stalls. Bouillabaisse, a traditional seafood stew, originates in this city and is said to have been invented by its fishermen, who boiled some of their catch in seawater while out at sea.
Mucem
Part of Marseille’s post-2013 revival, this is the first museum dedicated entirely to the culture of the Mediterranean. Exhibitions cover everything from trade and conflict to questions on why the Mediterranean diet is thought to lead to longer lives. The museum’s concrete lattice shell rises from the Vieux Port’s north shore, and is linked by a footbridge 60ft above the lapping waves to the 17th-century bastion of Fort Saint-Jean, offering stunning harbour views.
Street art tour
Alexandra Blanc Véa’s tours of the Cours Julien neighbourhood and its street art give context and colour to Marseille’s distinct identity. Learn about how hip hop influenced the city’s graffiti culture, why new art is being painted directly onto street surfaces and what avoir la banane (‘to have the banana’) means. There’s also a chance to meet local street artists, such as Mahn Kloix, in their studios. Book tours in English via groupes@marseille-tourisme.com
Le Panier
North of the Vieux Port, Marseille’s oldest district was settled by the ancient Greeks. These days, it’s a typically Mediterranean street scene, with hanging baskets and pastel-green shutters. Street art and sun-dappled corner cafes add further colour. Downhill from the neighbourhood is the grandiose, 19th-century Marseille Cathedral, with its Byzantine-style domes.
Torrefaction Noailles
With a wrought iron canopy above the door, and alluring oak, coffee and chocolate aromas permeating the air, this combined cafe and chocolaterie has been running for nearly a century, and its heritage seduces immediately on stepping inside. Head home with handfuls of shining pralines, spongy nougat and rainbow-coloured bonbons. There are branches around town — the flagship is on the central avenue of La Canebière.
Savonnerie Marseillaise de la Licorne
Marseille has been producing soap for over 600 years, mixing sea water, olive oil and alkaline ash from sea plants. Traditionally pistachio-green, it now comes in a variety of colours. Look out for a painted wooden boat in a shop window on the Vieux Port’s south shore, before entering a space filled with rustic maritime decor and a heady blend of sweet scents.
Trois Fenêtres
This concept craft store in Le Panier celebrates the warm tones of the Mediterranean through clothing, jewellery, decorations and photography. Locally designed T-shirts hang next to polaroid images of Marseille strung out on miniature clothes pegs, while potted plants add a homely charm to the room.
Au Comptoir du Livre
Part cafe, part bookshop, this quirky spot in Cours Julien masters French morning staples such as powerful black coffee and fluffy croissants. The real draw, though, are the dusty shelves of classic novels, an incongruous 1950s rock ’n’ roll soundtrack and a hodge-podge of rustic decor, including patterned rugs and kitsch chandeliers.
Restaurant Fémina
Straw-hatted Mustapha Kachetel is the fourth-generation owner of this Marseille institution. The North African cuisine pays homage to his Berber family, who hail from northern Algeria’s mountainous Kabylia region. Barley couscous forms an inviting bed for lamb, beef and chicken stews, all of which can be enlivened with hits of fiery harissa.
Miramar
Chef Christian Buffa’s fine interpretation of the quintessential Marseillais dish bouillabaisse is a masterclass in dramatic presentation and fidelity to the original recipe. Impeccably suited waiters in gleaming shoes glide between tables before presenting the classic fisherman’s soup, a richly flavoured Provençal broth of John Dory, anglerfish, eel and potatoes, with a dash of pastis added for good measure. The deboned fish are served separately.
Secluded harbour
A 30-minute walk south of the Vieux Port, in part along the steeply set coast road, lies the more secluded Vallon des Auffes, a tiny enclosed fishing harbour flanked by some lovely wine bars and bistros. The craggy surrounding cliffs and stone bridge arching across the harbour entrance make for a postcard scene, but this languid afternoon sun trap is best enjoyed with a cold drink in hand.
Pizza passion
While bouillabaisse is the dish most associated with Marseille, the city also has a deep affection for pizza. The wood-fired offerings are sublime at beloved, 25-seat La Bonne Mère, which sits on a small square in the hilly Vauban neighbourhood. Don’t miss the punchy anchovy pizza on a simple tomato base dotted with olives.
Market scenes
Assorted markets set up every morning on the streets of this historic trading port. The Marché des Capucins in the old-world Noailles district brings an array of powerful North African spice aromas, while the Marché de la Plaine hawks everything from potent red chilli peppers to colourful puffer jackets.
Hôtel Le Corbusier
Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier’s iconic Cité Radieuse is a UNESCO-listed modernist apartment building that also houses 21 hotel rooms. The wooden panelling and splashes of colour in its minimalist rooms are effortlessly cool. It’s two miles from the city centre, close to the stadium that will host the rugby. The private rooftop offers wonderful views.
Maison Montgrand
Scandi-modernist rooms spread across two converted 18th- and 19th-century townhouses in a relatively quiet neighbourhood just a few minutes on foot south of the Vieux Port. The bamboo garden is a welcome secluded green space in this part of the city, and one of Marseille’s finest breakfast settings.
Sofitel Marseille Vieux Port
From this hotel’s hilltop perch, guest rooms offer some of the best views of the harbour’s shimmering waters, bobbing masts and distant jumble of rooftops. Expect exceptional service and generously sized rooms, and don’t miss the sun-drenched rooftop cocktail bar.
La Maison Hantée
Pounding beats reverberate through the walls of this live rock venue, in business for over 30 years and located on a sloping side street off Cours Julien. Despite its rock focus, theme nights take in everything from hip hop to soul. It’s a low-key, fairly intimate space, drawing an eclectic crowd.
L’Abri
This laid-back bar in the foothills behind the ramparts of Fort Saint-Nicolas, south of the harbour mouth, is the only one in Marseille to make all its wine on site; the metal vats where the grape juice is vinified can be seen behind the counter. A regularly updated chalkboard announces food pairings, which could range from tuna sashimi to devilled eggs.
Beer District
Hemmed in between a cigar shop and a Tunisian restaurant near the Vieux Port, this lively spot is deceptively spacious inside and its taps pour over 25 different beers, explained in detail on a big screen above the bar. Nineties grunge often thumps through the stereo, while a vast range of sours, stouts and IPAs keeps the patrons happy.
- James March
- To see what Marseille is really like. Despite Marseille’s poor reputation among some people, I think this is far from the truth. And you’re going to have to visit to find out for yourself.
- To avoid the tourist path. While some avoid Marseille because it’s not Paris, this in many ways makes it a great place to visit. It’s less touristy, which means that you can avoid the crowds and see more of what authentic France has to offer.
- To try Marseille’s great food. Marseille may not be as famous as Paris for its food scene, but this is an unfair claim. In fact, Marseille’s food is wonderful and should be a top reason for visiting this city.
- To visit Marseille’s beaches. As I said before, many people don’t head to Marseille specifically for its beaches, and often head elsewhere on the southern coast.
Mar 23, 2023 · Speaking of pastis, the emblematic drink of Marseille, one of the best places to have one is on a sun-soaked terrace in Le Cours Julien, the hip artistic quarter. The large square is lined with...
Nov 3, 2023 · So, whether you’re planning a short weekend getaway or a longer exploration of the city, read on to discover the must-know facts and tips about Marseille, and get ready to immerse yourself in the magic of this vibrant French city.
